Christian Dior’s Spring 2025 Couture Collection: Child’s Play

Couture is where a designer's fantasy meets fabric, and for Christian Dior’s Spring 2025 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri brought a childlike sense of wonder to the runway. The show was set against the enchanting backdrop of the Musée Rodin during Paris Couture Week on January 27th, Chiuri wove together historical fashion, surrealist art, and literary whimsy to create a dreamlike spectacle that felt straight out of a fairytale.

Chiuri has always been fascinated by fashion history, and this collection was a masterclass in blending the past and the present. Elements from different eras were stitched seamlessly together—Edwardian leg-of-mutton puffed sleeves, tiered capes, and Tudor-style neckpieces met 17th-century tailcoat structures and a reinterpretation of Dior’s iconic 1947 Bar Jacket. The result? A collection that felt both regal and rebellious, nostalgic yet fresh.

Adding to this sense of dreamlike nostalgia were references to surrealist painters such as; Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning, whose fantastical imagery influenced the designs. And of course, a hint of Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland was woven throughout, making the entire collection feel like an elegant tumble down the rabbit hole. As Chiuri herself described it, this was a collection “full of joyfulness, dreams, and playfulness.”

The set design played a crucial role in immersing the audience in Chiuri’s whimsical world. Large-scale wall textiles titled ‘The flowers we grew’ by artist Rithika Merchant brought a fantastical , nature-inspired element to the show, further enhancing the collection’s surrealist, dreamlike essence. The result was a stage that felt like a fairytale, a place where dreams and fashion intertwined.

Despite its playful concept, the collection remained elegant and refined, thanks to a restrained colour palette of black, beige, and white. The monochromatic tones allowed the intricate details and craftsmanship to shine—each piece spoke for itself, proving that fantasy doesn’t always require a riot of colour.

As the models glided down the runway, it became clear that Chiuri had opened a couture dress-up box filled with treasures from every corner of fashion history. The silhouettes danced between structured and whimsical—mini crinolines and pannier skirts gave volume and drama, while big cage skirts created an almost architectural effect. The fabrics themselves told stories: delicate lace wove through the collection like whispers from the past, tiered organza floated like clouds, and broderie anglaise added a touch of innocence. Fur-like textures gave certain pieces an animalistic, mystical quality, as if the garments had been plucked from enchanted creatures in a whimsical forest.

Details were where the collection truly came alive. Streamers adorned with floral appliqués trailed from the skirts like vines in a fairytale garden, while frilly bloomers peeked out with a mischievous wink to childhood play. Corseted bodices cinched waists with regal precision, complemented by button-up tops, feathered coats, and tassels that swung with every step. Bows were everywhere—tied at the neck, wrapped around waists, and even on the neckline, adding a sense of innocence with a rebellious edge. The footwear played along with the overall theme, with lace-up gladiator-style pointed mules and pumps that felt both historical and daringly modern. The use of either a lace up shoe or a knee high stocking also added to the overall aesthetic of the collection and further emphasised the feel of a fairytale.

This collection was like stepping into a mystical forest where aristocratic elegance met childhood dress-up dreams. With embroidered flowers, floating fabrics, and structured coats, it felt as though enchanted creatures and noble queens had wandered straight out of a surrealist painting.

The beauty look was the final touch of magic—a perfect fusion of feminine softness and punk defiance. Models sported natural, peachy or nude makeup paired with feathered mohawks and dramatically waxed eyebrows, as if Victorian dolls had wandered into a surrealist dreamscape and discovered their inner rebels.

And as for the guest list? A perfect mix of Hollywood royalty and modern muses, including Anya Taylor-Joy, Pamela Anderson, Jenna Ortega (who I could definitely picture rocking a few of these pieces), Rihanna, Nicola Coughlan (fittingly from Bridgerton), Natalie Portman and many more A-listers—all there to witness Chiuri’s magical vision come to life.

The Dior Spring 2025 Couture collection proved that fashion doesn’t always have to take itself too seriously. Through historical references, surrealist influences, and a playful spirit, Maria Grazia Chiuri created a collection that was both elegant and fun—a rare balance in the world of haute couture. As Sarah Mower put it, the show was all about “nonsense and fairytales… very Alice in Wonderland.”

And really, what could be more couture than a beautifully crafted dream?